Are you lunar or solar? Warm, cold, olive or neutral? It is the dilemma of every woman to know her skin undertone to know which foundation shade to choose and which make-up colors are more donating. Here is our mini-guide to find it with the help of the principles of color harmony
In armocromia we often hear about the undertone and overtone of the skin, especially in make-up, but it is not always easy and immediate to identify them on oneself and describe them. The choice of hair colors, make-up, bijoux and clothing is based on these two elements of the skin: you will be able to enhance yourself better if you repeat the temperature of your undertone in what you wear. Here’s how to recognize it and understand which color palettes are ideal for you.
What is skin undertone
The undertone is the background color of the skin, specifically its temperature and can be: warm, cold, neutral or olive. This is what dictates which family of colors (warm or cold in fact, for the olive we will make a specific) is ideal. Trying to recognize your undertone only from the color of the veins, lips, sclera of the eyes and the iris test could be misleading, because it is often very difficult to distinguish the warm and cold undertones of these elements and just like the overtone, they can do not coincide with the undertone. A foolproof way to know your undertone is to do a color analysis with the appropriate tools.
What is the skin overtone
The overtone is the color of the skin on the surface as we see it and it can be alabaster, porcelain, ivory, yellow, beige, golden, olive and pink. The overtone in addition to the tonality also has an intensity, it can be milky, light, medium or dark, as also the classification of the phototypes requires. In some cases it is possible to perceive the undertone from the overtone (for example a distinctly pink overtone with frequent redness is typically cold), but it is not always immediate because they may not coincide.
The warm skin undertone
The warm undertone it manifests itself on the surface with an overtone of ivory, beige, yellow, golden or amber at best, or neutral. For women with warm undertones, even if very light-skinned, it always gives a touch of tan, which is homogeneous, golden and long-lasting. The warm undertone can have freckles on the face and body (but be careful it is not a prerogative only of the warm ones!) Which are generally of a brownish orange color. When a woman with a warm undertone wears cool colors under the face, or in make-up and hair, the overtone tends to turn gray, turn pale and fade, becoming even more discolored and aged. Spring and autumn women have warm undertones and are enhanced by warm make-up colors: gold, bronze, peach, orange, brown, terracotta, burgundy, orchid purple, moss green, coral red, salmon pink.
Lily Cole has warm undertones and overtones, with orange freckles and belongs to the spring color season Emily Ratajkowski has warm undertones and overtones, her complexion is amber and belongs to the autumn color season
The undertone of cool skin
The cold undertone manifests itself on the surface with a porcelain overtone, alabaster, neutral, pink and sometimes even tending to yellow (as we said, overtone and undertone do not always coincide). Women with cold undertones, unless they are olive (80-90% of olive skins turn out to be cold and when they tan they are deceiving and may look hot), they have a brick color rather than a golden tan as in the case of warm undertones and if light skinned, they pass from a burn before taking on color. Even the cool undertone can have freckles on the surface, compared to those of the warm undertone they are more brownish-gray than orange. When a woman with a cool undertone wears warm colors under the face, or in make-up and hair, the overtone it tends to yellow, is more marked, discolored and aged. Summer and winter women have cold undertones and are enhanced by cold make-up colors: silver, gray, taupe, rosy brown, blue, burgundy, plum, aubergine, fuchsia, cherry red and baby pink.
Elle Fanning has cool undertones and overtones, her complexion is very clear and tends to pink, belongs to the summer color season Alessandra Mastronardi has cold undertones and overtones, her complexion is clear and neutral-pink, she belongs to the winter chromatic season
The neutral skin undertone
In the color chart the perfectly neutral undertone not everyone contemplates it, because this discipline maintains that there is always a prevalence, even if slight, of a warm rather than cold undertone. Rather, we speak of neutral-warm or neutral-cold, that is, those people who have a very light temperature prevalence, which does not preclude the use of opposite colors because the neutral part allows them. In make-up, on the other hand, the neutral undertone is taken into consideration. If you think you have a neutral undertone, look at the other elements of your image (and not the temperature) to choose the donor colors: hair and eye color. If you are light and soft, equally light and soft colors will suit you, if you are dark and intense they will give you intense colors and so on. For the foundation you can choose from the neutral-beige range.
The undertone of olive skin
The olive undertone it is composed of a yellow component and a gray component and depending on how they combine in quantity they give the typical green color of olive trees. There olive skin regardless of the tone it can appear both very light and dark. In 90% of cases it is one skin considered cold when the gray component prevails, but in some cases, if the yellow one prevails, it can also be hot. It is not easy to find the correct foundation because this type of skin varies a lot according to the mix of colors that compose it, the shades of pink foundation that have a mask effect are certainly to be excluded, much more likely you can find the right color among the neutrals. .
Kendall Jenner is olive with cool undertones and belongs to the winter color season
The task of the foundation is not to alter one’s skin color but is to homogenize its tone as it is, making it luminous. The foundation it should always be tried on the cheek or jaw and not on the back of the hand or the inside of the wrist. It should be left to “act” for a few minutes to check that it does not oxidize on the skin by changing color, yesand it “disappears” in the skin and melts completely is the right one. If your overtone is distinctly yellow, golden or amber you can choose between neutral or warm “warm” shades, if instead it is alabaster, porcelain or rosy then you can choose between neutral or cold “cool” shades. Neutral beige tones work on a lot of skin tones, it’s always worth checking out if you find something in this range that’s right for you. For those who are olive, the choice of color depends on the combination of yellow and gray and once again the range of neutrals can help.
How to identify the “do it yourself” skin undertone
Stand in front of the mirror remove your make-up, with natural light. Take pieces of fabric or garments in these color pairs: orange and fuchsia, salmon pink and baby pink, ocher yellow and lemon yellow. Place the couple under your face and try one color first and then the other trying to focus on changing the color of your complexion: if it turns yellow and becomes more discolored (dark circles, spots, accentuated pimples) with the warm color you are likely to have a cool undertone; if it grays and fades, becoming more discolored, subjected to the cold color it is likely that you have a warm undertone. With the color opposite to your undertone you can also record the color of eyes that fades and the features that harden or “fall”, with more pronounced expression lines. On the contrary, with colors in line with one’s undertone, the eyes are brighter, the hair shinier, the features lifted and softened.