Yes, ripped jeans started taking off long ago, in the 80s; and they became widespread with the grunge aesthetics of the 90s, to stay from then on from generation to generation in the most unconditional trends in the streets of half the world. But now the trend takes a radical turn and those frayed ones in the front or the studied rips in the knees are left out in front of the new ones. perfectly calculated and geometric breaks. The clearest and most accurate in the trend are London-based Georgian David Koma and Paris-based German Lutz Huelle, but they are not alone.
This is Anthony Vaccarello's denim proposal for Saint Laurent.
Anthony Vaccarello, Creative Director of Saint Laurent, it aims at the current, providing a more conservative and well-known version, although with strong visual power; and Clare Waight Keller, at the forefront of the collections of Givenchy, plays the balance between the aesthetics of the 90s and the current canon combining controlled rips with interior interlinings in baggy jeans that the designer proposes advocating the current growing genderless trend against the hypersexualization of women in the 90s.
At Givenchy, its creative director, Clare Waight Keller, is committed to asymmetric shorts.
His best contribution, however, are the asymmetric denim shorts with different length and different denim on each leg. While half pants imitates home bleaching with bleach, the other half goes up a few inches and is made with a softer wear. And, of course, with broken and frayed, although only on the sides and bottom.
Isabel MarantFor his part, check out the seventies version of the cowboy minishort. Extreme hippy aesthetics from the late 60s and 70s with a micro denim version in raw and frayed denim controlled at the bottom. David Koma is one of the most original and he proposes them by opening triangles all over the side from the trousers, almost from the waist to the ankle, with the classic reinforced stitching so that they do not fray.
David Koma P / V show, with proposals such as these jeans with geometric openings.
And the German Lutz Huelle (also creative director of Delpozo) does a geometry exercise on the front with several open rectangles from the thigh to the hem. The German designer also makes another proposal that will have openwork on the street, denim patchwork skirts, in which in addition rotate the pattern removing the striker from its "place". Also the emerging firm Afterhomework, led by Pierre Kaczmarek and Elena Mottola, enter the trend with an ironic twist: sew frayed patches on pants with completely new denim.
Lutz Huelle Spring / Summer Parade.
If ripped pants are not your thing, you can still make a mark with accessories, because there are firms like Hogan that also adapt the trend to sandals and trainers.
Roman sandals in denim fabric, from Hogan.
