With that dress is it better to focus the makeup on the lips or eyes? And is eyeliner always a passepartout? Is there really a trick for every situation? We answer these and other questions with the make-up artist and image consultant
Match the makeup to the clothes it is not just a question of color and color, but also of style. If it is taken for granted that a make-up from before the Opera looks jarring with sporty chic clothing, the same cannot be said of smokey eyes on a bon ton sheath dress. On the contrary, some make-up can “disappear” in the presence of a look with a strong message (such as the dark lady ones), because they are so simple that they are dominated by them.
Whether the final effect is natural chic or super wow, the solution, as always, is harmony.
With the help of the make-up artist Barbara Del Sarto, we offer you 10 looks for all occasions with make-up ideas to coordinate. Take note!
1. With jeans, choose a sunkissed makeup
Make-up by Bibhu Mohapatra and fashion show by Alberta Ferretti
More than 100 years have passed since the invention of the blue jeans by the Americans Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis (it was 1873). Yet few know that its true origin is Italian and much older! The most famous fabric in the world was born in Genoa in the far 1500 , where it was first used as a cloth for the sails of the boats and then as a fabric for the trousers of the port officers. According to some historians, the name “blue jeans” derives from a contracture of the blue expression of Genes, blue of Genoa.
Since then the denim has undergone various stylistic transformations up to the most versatile and loved garment, as we know it today.
Make-up suitable for jeans
«In the form of a skirt, trousers, dungarees, dresses or shirts, jeans always evoke the idea of free time, even when paired with elegant outfits – he says makeup artist – for this reason it goes well with “unstructured” make-up, which does not include too graphic lines either on the eyes or on the lips ».
Better to shift the focus to the skin that must have a touch of health, like after a walk in the fresh air. Green light, therefore, for gold or bronze illuminants, nuances to be replicated on the eyes. A swipe of mascara, a shimmer lipstick is the look is perfect!
2. With the sheath dress, choose a bright lipstick
Makeup by Rue du Mail and dress by Tadashi Shoji
Little black dress, or the kingdom of suffused femininity and sensual, never exasperated. May it be snug or slipped, with a more or less accentuated neckline, the sheath dress accentuates the shapes of the female body. Enhance the bust, narrow the waist and show off rounded hips. The fabrics and variants are many, from the most classic to the most gritty, such as the one-shoulder versions or with flounces.
The make-up suitable for the sheath dress
«I would color the lips in contrast with the black, but avoiding scarlet red, because it could give an old style image. Better to stay on a dark pink, as the cyclamen or the magenta, or, if you prefer warmer tones, a beautifulvitamin orange. These cheerful colors certainly make a classic dress like the sheath dress more intriguing ».
The eyes? «Also to avoid the vamp effect, I wouldn’t do a smokey eyes that is too built up perhaps on gray, but I would use one softer technique that shades the eyelids just enough to give depth to the look. I would leave the definition to my lips! ».
3. For the sporty look, go for “undefined” red lips
Makeup by Badgley Mischka, Benetton fashion show
The inspiration gym and fitness gives an imprint to the trendy urban look. And that pleases women of all ages. Colored tracksuits, polo dresses, hooded sweatshirts and tennis skirts they caress the body with a chic casualness. At the foot, sneaker and platform make walking easier and faster on city streets.
The make-up suitable for the urban sporty look
«With sportswear, the ideal is to make up your eyes with liquid eyeshadows, remaining on light tones, such as i rosé, i bronze, i browns and other colors of autumn.
The Red lipstick instead creates a contrast with the disengaged look, as long as it is applied with the fingertip, as if you wanted to dirty your lips. Without defining the contours with pencil or brush. The idea is to obtain a transparent color that transmits the feeling of energy, given by the fitness clothes ».
4. For patterned dresses, go all out on eyeliner
Make-up by Cushnie et ochs, dress by Emilio Pucci
The atmosphere is that ofaperitif with friends. We imagine a whimsical look, with patterned blouses, skirts and matching trousers, where color is king. Stripes, geometric prints, abstract forms: we are in the field of expressiveness in fabrics and patterns. Which follows the styles of the various past decades: the 50s with wide skirts, the 60s with colorful dresses and the 70s with disco or hippie looks.
The make-up suitable for happy hour
«In the midst of so much imagination and color, we need a clear detachment given by the eyeliner that marks a real breaking line». Style? We leave it to you to choose: cat eye, punk, double tail, there is something for everyone. A not too colored gloss is good on the lips.
5. With floral dresses, bet on a blush rosator
Make-up by Chiara Boni La Petite Robe, dress by Blumarine
Floral patterns deserve a separate discussion because they constitute a very specific category of style. And then they divide between small and large flowers. In any case, in choosing the makeup combination, the floral fabric it is quite challenging: too much color all together! Are the flowers bi-colored? The too romantic effect must however be measured.
The make-up suitable for flower patterns
«Flowers communicate freshness, so I suggest evoking the idea of well-being with blush in shades of pink or peach. I would not load the eyes with further color, in order not to incur the ‘too much’ effect: it is better to opt for delicate touches with golden eyeshadows, champagne, taupe and all the neutral shades that shade the eyelids without overloading them. Finally, lots and lots of mascara, for doll lashes »!
6. For the mannis lookh, you need a smokey eyes soft
Makeup and dress by Giorgio Armani
Blazer and pants, a classic to be adopted as a “uniform” for the office or a sophisticated look for various contexts, not necessarily linked to the professional sphere. Seemingly masculine, the jacket is actually a versatile garment that lends itself to various interpretations of one’s femininity. It can be gritty or sweet baby, depending on the cut and fabric.
The make-up suitable for jacket and pants
“With a manly look I would orient myself on an eye structured by a soft smokey eyes: it is a way to tell a veiled sensuality in retro style. Think of the great divas of the twenties and thirties who first wore the men’s suit: they showed an intriguing look with eyes skilfully enhanced by blended eyeshadows with lines not too upturned. The nuances? Gray, brown and aubergine, but never too dark because the intent is not to create a dark make-up ».
7. For an aggressive look, choose bold smokey eyes
Versace makeup and dress
Necklines, inlays and slits. Leather, chains and contrasting colors. Here femininity becomes irrepressible. The message is to provoke with a decisive attitude. The intent is to get noticed, regardless of the context and time of day.
The make-up suitable for rock star style
“With such sexy and strong clothing, makeup has to adapt accordingly. Perfect is a true smokey eyes in dark shades, with an elongated and slightly upward shape, which ends towards the temples. Yes to the sculpting of the eyelid with chiaroscuro effects, no to the simple pencil line. The lips? Better to leave them naked, so as not to overload the image as a whole ».
8. Enhance the bon ton clothes with a pastel makeup
Makeup by Sienna LI, dress by Victor & Rolf
And the classy look inaugurated in the 50s which makes the evening less formal and fills the afternoons with elegance. Chic patterned or plain dresses with flowing or tight lines, for a romantic evening or a ceremony. Style? You choose it! As long as there is a touch of Grace Kelly glamor.
The right make-up for retro elegance
“That of the pastel dresses it is perhaps the only area in which tinted make-up is not trivial. The reason? Unlike the other looks, in this case the similarity between colors creates a greater harmony. Can you imagine a brown or gray smokey on a green dress? Better a delicate eyeshadow of the same color, perhaps playing with shades of green. The same goes for light blue, pink and all the other pastel shades. A coral or pink lipstick – but not bright – will complete the make-up with elegance ».
9. With bright colorsi, dare a contrasting trick
Versus makeup, Tod’s fashion show
Those who love color par excellence often wear monochromatic looks, perhaps by finely combining various shades of the same tonality. Or he breaks them with panache. Here, then, yellow or orange or green outfitsi combined with accessories in contrasting colors or with lighter or darker tones.
The make-up suitable for cheerful monochromatic looks
«A colorful style – but not multicolor – becomes more fun with a makeup made in a complementary and contrasting color. Some examples of colored makeup? L’blue eyeshadow, calm and thoughtful, breaks the cheerfulness of orange or yellow, the line of green eyeliner, relaxing and soothing, lightens the vivacity of the deep pink, the purple pencil, intense and deep, adds mystery to the blue dress ».
10. With the ethnic and folk look, try sculpting
Blugirl makeup, Etro dress
The ethnic style is a kaleidoscope of colors and applications, from any continent it is inspired by (Asia, America, Africa). It also does not have a precise temporal location: it is indeed suitable both for the day and for the evening. It is the refinement of the fabrics that changes the cards on the table, as well as the preciousness of the embroideries.
The make-up suitable for ethno-folk
«I’d work my eyes with creamy textured eyeshadows on earth colors, which lend themselves more than others to being perfectly blended. I would also focus on facial sculpting, dosing well the illuminants on the bridge of the nose, Cupid’s bow and cheekbones. On the lips a not too heavy lipstick in the same color as all the make-up »- concludes the make-up artist Barbara Del Sarto.